AuthorCharlie Leary earned his PhD in history at Cornell University. He has served as a wine director for restaurants in New Orleans, southern France, Canada, Costa Rica and Panama since 1995. He is a certified Spanish Wine Specialist, Cava Educator and Expert and has studied wine through Washington State University, the Wine Scholar Guild, California Wine Institute, and the Rioja Academy. Charlie is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers. Archives
June 2024
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Regenerative agriculture, and with it, regenerative viticulture, have very recently generated a lot of buzzes. There’s a new Regenerative Viticulture Foundation and many wine experts like Master of Wine Jancis Robinson, as well as important wine companies like Torres, have thrown their weight behind the concept. With many on-premise consumers choosing green wines, will regenerative viticulture change the sales and wine menu landscape? Or is this just another rendition of sustainable, organic, biodynamic, or natural wine? What is Regenerative Viticulture? The Foundation defines regenerative viticulture as “the capability . . . to sequester atmospheric carbon, helping mitigate climate change and global warming impacts, as well as enhance the natural environment.” The goal is to move “away from a chemical-based monocultural agriculture that is degenerative to soil and local ecosystems.” A prominent British wine publication has claimed that “regenerative viticulture is the only vineyard model based on the carbon cycle, which maximizes the vine’s ability to absorb CO2 from the atmosphere and store it in the ground, benefiting the soil and promoting biodiversity.” Promoters emphasize enhancing biodiversity and enriching vineyard soil health, with a big focus on quarantining carbon in the ground through a variety of techniques, including cover crops and sheep grazing between the vines, but going as far as multi-cropping and encouraging nearby forests. For a specific example, Oregon regenerative viticulturist Mimi Casteel practices farming without irrigation and tilling, growing fruits and vegetables with the grape vines, and “introducing animals on her farm (pigs and ducks, for example) to further support this habitat.” What many of us might call weeds are also tolerated, not eliminated. Stephen Cronk, the Foundation’s founder, and Trustee refers to the need for a “holistic way of farming.” McClaren Vale winegrower Dudley Brown says, “The regenerative approach is the only approach that seeks to continually and specifically improve the status of the resource base via the diversity of plant and soil life, increasing organic matter and water-holding capacity while simultaneously reducing or minimizing the costs of external or off-farm inputs.” He insists that objectively measuring vineyard soil health is a critical task for the new movement. Wine expert and scientist Jamie Goode say what’s new is really a matter of focus, comparing it with the precepts of biodynamics and permaculture, already practiced for decades. Goode believes there is something new. “Key to regenerative viticulture is the idea of the vineyard as an agroecosystem. . . . It is about farming soils, not just seeing the vine as a crop plant.” But What is So Different Here? I’ve recently practiced a version of sustainable viticulture in Andalusia and was one of Louisiana’s first certified organic farmers in the 1990s. I studied permaculture. But I didn’t call any of this “regenerative viticulture.” The goals and practices promoted by the Foundation, Torres, and other small winemakers like Brown, Casteel, and Cronk are admirable. Do we as a society need another catch-phrase? And do wine professionals need to know about, and be able to sell on-premise, yet another green way of producing grapes for wine? We already have organic and biodynamic, among others. From a sommelier or wine director’s perspective, yes. Regenerative viticulture continues to gain the attention of the wine world, including fine wine consumers. There is now a certification program from the Regenerative Organic Alliance in California applied to winegrowers. Having the capacity to discuss in detail wines made from these practices will engage consumers and sell more wine. It’s also important for climate change and the planet’s health. On the positive side, regenerative viticulture addresses some of the problems with the natural wine movement, which can lack definition, application of academic knowledge, and conventions. Thus Cronk’s underlining of the importance of objective standards is appreciated. Making soil health the central component of winegrowing practices is fundamental and lends the movement something solid, analyzable, to build upon, and to establish benchmarks. The holistic perspective is important too: a vineyard is part of an ecosystem, after all. Pesticide and herbicide use in vineyards should be curtailed. Soils should be looked after like the treasure for future quality products that they are. The particular emphasis on carbon sequestration in the soil, especially when viewed from a holistic perspective, technically distinguishes regenerative viticulture from biodynamics and organic cultivation. This means the use of nitrogen-fixing plants as cover crops and/or companion plants. Adding animals, like chickens or sheep, produce the manure that’s essential to soil enrichment, an organic fertilizer that also contains essential bacteria. No- or low-tilling practices also help preserve soil quality. Tilling and removing other plants beside the grape vines is taboo under this system, as are, it almost goes without saying, chemical inputs like synthetic fertilizers, which do nothing long term to enrich the soil or preserve its positive qualities for producing great wines. I understand that technically organic and biodynamic practices are more about prescriptive measures—what you can’t do to cultivate the vines—than positive enriching measures. But this argument only goes so far as the individual winegrower. My personal perspective, as well as that of many certified organic and biodynamic producers, already encompasses a whole ecosystem, low input, soil-centric perspective. Famed wine grower Peter Sisseck produces biodynamically. Does this mean he does the bare minimum to gain certification, with no consideration of the whole grape-growing system? No. Sisseck and others have long emphasized the importance of a deep understanding of winemaking and terroir together, knowing when inputs are necessary but also realizing that minimal intervention is a plus. Animals and the manure they produce, are for Sisseck among others, an integral part of the viticultural system, even if technically this is not part of biodynamic production. He says he works “in a very natural but academic way.” The holistic perspective is part of regenerative viticulture, but also of biodynamic viticulture, which is why Sisseck sees it essential to have a manure source. “In order to close the biodynamic circle completely, we will need a cattle ranch. Composting, for example, is very important for biodynamics.” Biodynamics, as well as permaculture practices, embraced a holistic perspective based on soil health well over a decade ago. An in-depth 2012 article talked about “the regenerative promise of biodynamics,” for example, and quoted Wes Jackson as saying, “Soil is a placenta or matrix, a living organism which is larger than the life it supports, a tough elastic membrane which has given rise to many life forms…. But it is itself now dying. It is a death that is utterly senseless, and portends our own.” So, the emphasis in regenerative viticulture on the soil, carbon sequestration, and an all-encompassing perspective should be applauded, more so if objective standards are built into practices, including certification programs. But I’m not sure there’s much truly new here, just perhaps the focus changed as Goode states, and the claims that this is the only system that “seeks to continually and specifically improve the status of the resource base via a diversity of plant and soil life” seems tenuous. Wines from Regenerative Viticulture That said, does regenerative viticulture produce good wines that can be profitably sold on-premise? Absolutely. Extremely high-quality wineries offering high-quality use of regeneratively cultivated fruit, usually from their own estates. Here are a few examples: - Truett-Hurst 2018 Rockpile Zinfandel: A single-vineyard wine made by a dedicated regenerative producer in Dry Creek, Healdsburg, California. - Troon Vineyard 2020 Amphora Amber: A skin-fermented Vermentino wine that is Regenerative Organic Certified, from Oregon’s Applegate Valley. - Tablas Creek Vineyard has bottled seven varietal whites from the 2021 vintage that are Regenerative Organic Certified. These included varietal wines (Viognier, Picpoul, and Grenache Blanc), including rare grapes (Bourboulenc, Picardan, and Clairette Blanche), and one blend, the Cotes de Tablas Blanc. - Rose wines (there’s a whole range) from Maison Mirabeau, Provence, France. (Article originally published by Sommeliers Choice Awards)
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The world's most amazing wine tanker4/24/2024 Here's a little excerpt from my article for Tim Atkin MW on the wine tanker Angelo Petri owned and operated by United Vintners . . .
In the late 1950s, the new ship made the competitive Gallo brothers extremely nervous, though their company, and American wine drinkers, eventually benefitted from a lower cost product, helping create the wave of California wineries in the seventies. Professor Maynard Amerine of the University of California at Davis suggested in 1971 that the Angelo Petri, built by United Vintners in San Francisco, impacted the advancing American “interest in table wines” between 1956 and 1970, a period when per capita wine consumption in the United States more than doubled, with California supplying about 90 percent of domestic production. Non-fortified still wine consumption rose from about 1.36 million hectolitres to about 15.1 million by 1980, and the quality and diversity improved by leaps and bounds, quenching the growing thirst. Read more at: timatkin.com/the-tale-of-the-angelo-petri/
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Tasting Note: undurraga demi-sec4/18/2024 Chile is generally not the first place I think of when choosing a sparkling wine. For value, I prefer Cava. Some twenty-something friends, however, recently tried this inexpensive ($7 in Panama) sparkling wine and liked it; and I appreciate the overall quality of Undurraga’s winemaking at all levels. Let’s see what we have . . .
This wine is made from 100% Chardonnay, and unlike the Brut is made using the Charmat method. The grapes came from the Valle Central. While uncorking, it had a decent amount of pressure in the bottle. Large bubbles. Indistinct aromas of white fruit, melon, flowers lead to tasting, yes, a Demi-sec. It’s sweet while I’m used to drinking Brut or Nature sparklers. Behind the sweetness is a lot of peach and maybe some Gala apple. The bubbles dissipate . . . Overall, this would make a grand, cheap aperitif wine on a hot Panama summer day. A good entry-level wine for Gen Z. What is it they used to say about gateway drugs. This is a gateway wine.
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Thanks to Wine South Africa, we have this intriguing history, starting in the mid seventeenth century! 1659 – 2023
1659 Seven years after the founding of a Dutch settlement at the Cape by Jan van Riebeeck, the first wine was pressed on 2 February from cuttings imported from France. 1685 Governor Simon van der Stel established a wine estate at Constantia on the lower slopes of Table Mountain. 1688 The young wine industry was given a boost by the arrival of 200 French Huguenots, who brought with them a wine culture, even though not many of them had detailed knowledge of winemaking. Viticulture is established beyond the boundaries of the Cape Peninsula, with wine farms in Stellenbosch and Drakenstein (which later became known as Franschhoek). 1788 Hendrik Cloete of Constantia produces natural sweet wines that become famous overseas. For almost two centuries these remain the Cape’s best-known and most desirable wines, enjoyed by European kings and their guests, emperors, statesmen and merchant princes. 19th Century South Africa’s wine industry suffered due to epidemics of powdery mildew and Phylloxera vastatrix. Global politics and market forces also take their toll, causing a serious over-production of wine and a substantial drop in prices, resulting in the disposal of millions of litres of unsaleable wine. 1918 Paarl advocate Charles WH Kohler found the Ko-operatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid-Afrika – a cooperative involving all wine producers, for whom it means a secure income and financial growth. KWV brings stability to the industry, placing it on the road to growth and prosperity. 1925 The successful crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (Hermitage) by Professor AI Perold to produce Pinotage, a truly South African cultivar. A concerted drive over the years has seen this wine become one of the flagship varieties of the South African wine industry. 1957 The introduction of cold fermentation was a major breakthrough in wine technology and resulted in a better bouquet and improved quality of white wines. This method also increased the popularity of semisweet wines and extended to the red wine boom of the early 1970s. 1971 The Stellenbosch Wine Route was founded and today the dynamic wine routes in all the wine production areas are major tourist attractions. The scenic winelands have been described as the most beautiful in the world. 1973 The Wine of Origin Scheme is introduced. A total of 13 areas of origin are designated and limitations are placed on the use of the term “estate”, vintage years, and grape cultivar designations. Local wine industry regulations are brought in line with those in Europe and cultivar and classic wines become more popular. The scheme is applied by the Wine and Spirit Board. The administration and inspection services are now contracted to SAWIS. 1997 The wine producers’ organisation, KWV, transformed from a cooperative to a company. 1999 The Wine Industry Trust was established by the minister of agriculture and KWV to fund and manage generic promotion and research for the SA wine industry, assist with the establishment of new farmers from previously disadvantaged groups and promote the development of farm worker communities. 2000 Stellenbosch Farmers' Winery (SFW) and Distillers Corporation merged to form Distell, a move that would benefit the industry as a whole through its rationalisation, refocusing and effective pooling of resources. 2001 The Vision2020 research report to formulate a strategic programme for the South African wine industry is completed. 2002 The SA Wine and Brandy Company (SAWB) is formed and draws together stakeholders from all sectors of the wine industry to implement a strategic programme to make the industry globally competitive. 2003 Vinpro was founded as an independent service organisation for wine producers which offers consultation services in viticulture, oenology, soil science, agri-economics and Black Economic Empowerment (BEE). It is also committed to information transfer through WineLand Media and other publications such as the annual SA Wine Industry Directory. Through WineMS it offers an information management system for wine businesses. 2004 The SAWB initiates a Charter for Black Economic Empowerment in collaboration with SAWIS. Its Wine Industry Strategy Plan (WIP) entails the development of economic, social, and human resources programmes. 2004 The Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI) was formed. A partnership between the wine industry and various conservation bodies, it aims to protect the Cape’s unique biodiversity and extraordinary but threatened Floral Kingdom (9 600 species, 70% of which are endemic) through collaboration with the Integrated Production of Wine (IPW) system. 2005 The world’s first Biodiversity Wine Route opens in the 34 000 ha Groenlandberg Conservancy. The Green Mountain Eco Route in the Kogelberg Biosphere offers a variety of ecotourism activities in the Elgin, Bot River and Theewaterskloof Dam regions. 2006 The South African Wine Industry Council replaces the SAWB, to represent the South African wine industry and enhance the strategic environment for the benefit of the South African wine industry. 2008 Vinpro transformed into a company. Abrie Beeslaar, winemaker at Kanonkop, is named International Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine and Spirits Competition (IWSC). He is the fourth South African winemaker to receive this honour, following in the footsteps of Günter Brözel (1985), Beyers Truter (1991) and Altus le Roux (2001). Kanonkop has been awarded the trophies for the best blended red wine with its Paul Sauer 2003 and best South African producer. 2009 On 2 February the South African wine industry celebrates 350 years of winemaking. 2010 The “green seal” is introduced to denote the integrity and sustainability of a wine. A voluntary system, the certification is awarded to wines that comply with IPW guidelines. The new seal, to be displayed on environmentally friendly wines, features a protea. 2011 WineLand magazine, incorporating Wynboer – the mouthpiece of the South African wine industry, celebrates its 80th anniversary. Originally established as Wine and Spirit – a South African Review, it was renamed Wynboer in 1965 and WineLand in 2000. 2013 In 2013 two major wine industry organisations, Vinpro and Wine Cellars South Africa, merged to form one powerful representative body for wine grape producers and cellars. The merger enhances the wine industry’s bargaining power, unlocks strategic synergies, and leads to more efficient service delivery. 2014 The wine industry launched the Wine Industry Strategic Exercise (WISE) with the aim to craft a revised strategic framework with aspirational targets needed to ensure an adaptable, robust, globally competitive and profitable SA wine industry. 2016 WISE identifies six main work streams: Socioeconomic development and upliftment, economic empowerment and development, market development and promotion, knowledge and information development, technology innovation and transfer, and HR development and training. Ten projects of which six game changers (analysis of consumer trends per key market and formalising a global trade agenda, technological innovation, promoting Brand SA, improving tourism, creating a transformation plan for the industry, and forming a social compact between industry, government, and labour) are rolled out in 2016. 2017 A phase of significant uprooting of vineyards and business realignment, creating an improved balance between supply and demand, swings the pendulum towards demand-driven production. There is a strong focus on repositioning South African wine in higher-value segments in priority markets. Oude Meester Demant is named World’s Best Brandy at the 2017 World Drinks Awards. WISE is in the process of finalising the Wine Tourism Strategy and as part of this initiative an online wine tourism portal, visitwinelands.co.za, was launched. 2018 The wine industry worldwide suffers production setbacks leading to pressure on wine supplies. Europe’s wine production is at its lowest in nearly 45 years. In South Africa, the total area under vine has shrunk by almost 9% in ten years, a trend that looks set to continue in the foreseeable future. A series of high-profile acquisitions include the sale and merger of Uitkyk and Warwick Wines, while French company AdVini acquired a majority share in Stellenbosch Vineyards. 2019 On 2 February the South African wine industry celebrates 360 years of winemaking. The 2019 production year was characterised by great variation in yields between and within regions. Red varieties in particular had lower yields in certain regions. The Northern Cape, Swartland, Paarl and Worcester regions produced larger crops than the previous year, but from a low base after large losses in 2018, while Olifants River and Klein Karoo were hit by a second consecutive year of drought. 2020 As the Covid pandemic swept the globe, tourism, and the ability to socialise ground almost to a halt, just as the industry looked forward to celebrating an exceptional harvest. The local wine industry was hit especially hard, as government-imposed lockdowns limited the sale and distribution of alcohol for 14 consecutive weeks. As a result, wine consumption in South Africa declined 19.4% compared to 2019 – the lowest in 20 years. 2021 Tim Atkin’s South African report calls this vintage one of the Cape’s best to date. Supposed to be a year of recovery, Covid restrictions continued wreaking havoc. An excellent harvest meant producers had to find new ways to move large volumes of uncontracted surplus wine. As a result of low production worldwide, the industry experienced a boom in the value of exports. In the local market, wineries polished their e-commerce and direct-to-consumer models, while large investors were being drawn to opportunities offered by the “new normal”. 2022 South Africa draws international interest with the highly anticipated CapeWine trade fair hosted in Cape Town, and Stellenbosch plays host to the second International Chenin Blanc Congress. Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2021 and KWV The Mentors Cabernet Franc 2019 steal Best in Show at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Van Ryn’s 20-year-old potstill brandy wins World’s Best Wine Brandy at the World Brandy Awards. The wine industry revises its strategic plan (WISE) towards 2025, now incorporated in the multi-stakeholder Agriculture and Agro-processing Master Plan (AAMP). 2023 A new umbrella organisation, South Africa Wine NPC, was founded on 1 June 2023 to unite all functions of the South African wine industry under a single voice. Heineken South Africa successfully completed its acquisition of Distell and Namibia Breweries to form Heineken Beverages. Van Ryn's 15-year-old potstill brandy is named as the World's Best Wine Brandy at the 2023 World Brandy Awards.
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The founder of Lingua Franca, Larry Stone MS, spoke lovingly about the “layers of flavor,” the great “finesse,” and the “mineral aspects” of Eola-Amity Hills pinot noir, which makes wine from this Oregon appellation “compelling.” He started the company in 2012 after a long career in wine.
The American Viticulture Area (AVA) he spoke of lies nested inside the much larger Willamette Valley AVA, near Portland, Oregon. A Master Sommelier, Stone concluded that these superb qualities, linked to a distinct terroir, make Eola-Amity Hills wines “extremely interesting and appealing to a wide international audience.” Indeed, by 2020, dozens of states and 60 international markets carried the Lingua Franca brand, including strong markets in Europe and East Asia. “I think for one who likes Burgundy this is the best place in the world to grow outside of Burgundy.” Lingua Franca’s story presents a microcosm of the changes affecting the Oregon wine industry, which reflects major trends nationwide. Coming from California, Stone bought the vineyards and created a vinous powerhouse within eight years. As the Lingua Franca website explains, renowned Bourgogne winemaker “Dominique Lafon took notice of this exceptional vineyard site and joined Larry Stone, alongside winemaking protégé Thomas Savre, to craft uniquely expressive wines harnessing the unique terroir of Oregon.” The crusader of regenerative viticulture, Mimi Casteel, pitched in to help Stone as well. Bourgogne wine producers had in fact taken an interest in Oregon going back three decades when the prescient Domaine Drouhin invested in the Valley, but most Oregon wine producers remain small and quality-oriented. In spring 2022, however, Stone sold Lingua Franca to wine and spirits giant Constellation Brands. This is a Fortune 500 company, with brands including Robert Mondavi (acquired in 2004) and its subsets (alongside Coors and Modelo beer). Constellation, too, had implemented strategic shifts in business strategy. The New York State-based company sold most of its “value-oriented” brands to California’s E & J Gallo in 2021 while reorienting towards premium and luxury markets, holding, for example, To Kalon Vineyard Company, The Prisoner Wine Company, Mount Veeder, and Schrader Cellars in its new Aspira Fine Wine & Craft Spirits portfolio. Lingua Franca joined the Aspira roster, which is a standalone, vertically integrated fine wine and craft spirits division formed the same year. Constellation reported results from its fiscal quarter ending Nov. 30, 2023: Net income was $509 million, up 9% annually, on net sales of $2.47 billion, up 1% from the prior year. And now, the President of Aspira, Robert Hanson, who Stone praised as a visionary committed to sustainable production, is leaving Constellation. “Robert has been instrumental in leading the charge to reposition our Wine & Spirits business to a higher-end portfolio of brands more aligned with consumer trends, with an expanded focus to include global, omnichannel distribution, with more robust and targeted international and direct-to-consumer sales channels,” Constellation said in a news release. Read the full article at Sommeliers Choice Awards. . . .
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"Amo sobre una mesa/cuando se habla/la luz de una botella/de inteligente vino" escribió Pablo Neruda.
Aprender sobre el vino implica un proceso interminable: siempre hay más que aprender sobre diferentes regiones, estilos de vino y variedades de uva. Tanto los amantes del vino como los profesionales del vino deben continuar por el camino del aprendizaje. Sin embargo, los estudios de vino pueden costar bastante. Los cursos de certificación de sommelier o negocios de vinos pueden costar miles y decenas de miles de dólares. A menudo, también, tomar un curso presencial para mantenerse al día y ampliar su conocimiento del vino es imposible dadas las apretadas agendas de las personas. Afortunadamente, el número de cursos de vino en línea gratuitos ha crecido en los últimos años. Muchas agencias regionales o nacionales de promoción del vino o consejos reguladores europeos han desarrollado programas en profundidad. La gran mayoría ofrece clases en línea asincrónicas, lo que significa que puede estudiar a su propio ritmo, en su propio horario. También hay algunos cursos de vino en línea relativamente baratos en español de educadores de vino o escuelas privadas de vino. Otros cursos están disponibles para aquellos en el comercio del vino de forma gratuita después de pasar por un proceso de solicitud; de lo contrario, tienen tarifas. Así ocurre, por ejemplo, con el programa Spanish Wine Specialist de la agencia comercial española ICEX, o las nuevas certificaciones de vino del California Wine Institute, que pronto estarán disponibles en español. ¿Cuáles son los cursos gratuitos y económicos disponibles en línea? Aquí, presento programas gratuitos de estudios de vino en línea , así como algunos que cuestan $ 200 dólares estadounidenses o menos. Los criterios de inclusión incluyen el uso de una plataforma formal de aprendizaje en línea (es decir, no solo una serie de videos de YouTube), la necesidad de registro, algún tipo de estructura para revisar o probar el material estudiado y la posibilidad de recibir un certificado o prueba de finalización del curso. He clasificado los programas en clases generales e introductorias , así como clases regionales y nacionales. La Academia Mario Braga El argentino Mario Braga es unexperimentado sommelier que recientemente fue nombrado por The International Wine And Spirit Competition (IWSC) entre los comunicadores de vino más influyentes del mundo. Ha viajado alrededor de 65 países. Él dice, he "desarrollando una mirada global de la industria vitivinícola que hoy comparto orgulloso con la comunidad de bebedores seriales más grande de habla hispana. " Sitio web: https://marianobraga.com/academia/ La Academia ofrece siete cursos en línea que cuestan entre $ 55 y $ 250. • Taller virtual de cata de vinos • Curso online de formación profesional para dueños de vinotecas • Aprender a comprar vino • Vinos Argentinos • ABC del maridaje • Sin contracturas: programa más completo para quienes se están iniciando en el mundo del vino • InstaWine: dominar de una vez por todas la red social que digita la comunicación del vino Estos son completamente en línea, asíncronos, con un certificado emitido al completarse con éxito. Academia del Vino de Rioja ¡Gana el Diploma del Vino de Rioja! El consejo regulador de Rioja ha elaborado un curso exigente para introducir y adquirir experiencia en toda la gama de vinos de Rioja. Aquítambién hay opciones para especializarse en los campos de Comercio y Distribución o Turismo. Hay otro curso llamado Rioja 4 estaciones a disposición de los antiguos alumnos del curso de Diploma. Sitio web: https://riojawineacademy.com/es/home Society of Wine Educators La Sociedad bien considerada y establecida desde hace mucho tiempo ahora ofrece su calificación HBSC en español: Certificado de Especialista en Bebidas. Este es un curso introductorio sobre el vino, pero también incluye otras bebidas como sake e incluso café. La clase está diseñada para estudiantes y profesionales en el campo de la hospitalidad y la gastronomía, así como para aquellos quienes planean obtener niveles más altos de certificación en vinos, cervezas o licores. El HBSC provee una amplia base de conocimiento de producto en las bebidas comerciales más relevantes. El costo es de $99. Sitio web: https://societyofwineeducators.org/education-certifications/certificado-de-especialista-en-bebidas/ Cava Academy La Cava Academy es una iniciativa del consejo regulador de la DO Cava. Ofrece un programa de estudio en línea de Formador en Cava, así como una certificación Cava Expert que implica escribir una tesis de investigación sobre un tema específico. La tesis es revisada por un comité de expertos. También hay algunas oportunidades de capacitación en persona. Los estudiantes deben solicitar la admisión al curso de Formador de Cava. Sitio web: https://cavaacademy.com/es/presentation/ Gobierno de Aragón Realiza múltiples cursos para obtener el Diploma de Experto en Vinos de Aragón por el Gobierno de Aragón. Estediploma consiste en múltiples clases en cada región vinícola que se encuentra en Aragón; es especialmente bueno para los amantes de la garnacha, ¡pero también incluye el Cava, vino espumoso! Sitio web: https://www.aragonwineexpert.com/pagina-ejemplo/diploma-experto-en-vinos-de-aragon/ Comité Interprofesional del Vino de Champagne - La clase MOOC del Comité de Champagne investiga todos los aspectos del Champagne, desde los requisitos legales hasta los métodos de producción, con actualizaciones periódicas incluso después de terminar el curso; Hay un cargo si desea un certificado. El MOOC del Champagne se compone de muchos vídeos y está disponible en francés e inglés, con subtítulos en otros 7 idiomas. Sitio web: https://www.champagne.fr/es/la-revista-champagne/mooc-del-champagne-conviertase-en-un-experto-del-champagne Aula de Jerez • Curso Básico de la DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry y Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda de la Academy de Jerez – Aula de Jerez: Este curso proporciona una introducción a los estilos de Jerez, la historia, la producción y las leyes reguladoras actuales. • Curso Avanzado de la DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry y Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda de la Academy de Jerez – Aula de Jerez: Después del Curso Básico, aprenderás más sobre los detalles de la producción de Jerez y el terruño, incluyendo aprender a distinguir Finos de Cream Sherries, y Amontillados de Olorosos. • Curso de Enoturismo del Marco de Jerez: Curso destinado a profesionales y futuros profesionales del turismo que quieran orientar o ampliar sus conocimientos hacia el terreno del turismo del vino en general y, más concretamente, adquirir una formación que les permita conocer y explotar los recursos enoturísticos del Marco de Jerez. Sitio web: https://www.sherryacademy.org/es/home Formate Sommeliers Afiliado a la conocida Escuela Argentina de Sommeliers, Formate ofrece varios programas asincrónicos en línea en español, con dos clases para personas que aspiran a ser sumilleres, incluido el Programa Integral en Sommellerie, que dura hasta 180 días e incluye dos clases de degustación guiadas a través de Zoom. Cuesta $ 720, pero se puede comprar en etapas a partir de $ 290. Otros cursos cortos a partir de $ 35 incluyen: • Argentina, país productor • Introducción al Vino y a la Degustación • Vino del Viejo Mundo I: Francia • Vino del Viejo Mundo II: España, Portugal, Italia, Alemania y Austria • Vino del Nuevo Mundo • Vinos Dulces y Cervezas Sitio web: https://formatesommeliers.com Próximas programas de educación sobre el vino Los nuevos programas de educación sobre el vino en español están en constante evolución. Aquí hay dos que vale la pena vigilar: • Capstone del California Wine Institute: Obtenga experiencia en vinos de California con estos múltiples niveles de certificación. Una versión en español parece estar en proceso. Sitio web: https://www.capstonemexico.com • Second Winery: Esta nueva empresa ofrecerá una certificación de vino a través de experiencias inmersivas en 3D de bodegas y viñedos de todo el mundo. El camino de aprendizaje implica completar diferentes tareas vitivinícolas, y aquellos con una configuración de realidad virtual pueden participar. Actualmente en inglés, Second Winery tendrá una versión en español, que incluye inteligencia artificial interactiva. Sitio web: https://www.secondwinery.com Para obtener una guía completa de los programas de educación sobre el vino en todo el mundo, lea mi libro Leary's Global Wineology.
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Serious wine glasses: part two1/28/2023 Last July, I went on a search for a high quality universal wine glass. After considering various options, I narrowed it down to three choices based on quality and budget. I wrote: I cannot resist trying THE ONE red wine glasses from Andrea Robinson. German crystal, professionally designed, holding 19 ½ ounces, and only $13.50 per stem is hard to beat. But I will order four and see how they perform with different wines. My personal choice for a practical, affordable, and elegant universal wine glass? The Zwiesel Forte collection Burgundy/Light Red and White Wine glass. I would prefer a glass holding more than 14 ounces (full capacity), but I like the practical design, price, and elegant look. They will be great for wine tastings. That said, I’m also order a set from the Gigi line, as a runner-up, but not the red glass. I prefer the Gigi white wine glass height and its enhanced swirling capacity, with a generous enough capacity of almost 18 ounces. I also favor Zwiesel’s strong and longstanding eco-friendly commitments. All three arrived in Panama via Miami without any breakage or damage. I have tried all three for months in ordinary use. Breakage All three were always hand washed. One of the Forte glasses broke, but only recently. It slipped out of my hand, falling a few inches onto a tile floor, and that was it. I lost two Gigi glasses, but the second time was attributable to uncareful placement in a crowded sink by a third party; the same happened to one of THE ONE glasses. Overall, all three are sturdy glasses, though I believe the wider bowl and caved design on the Forte glass makes for somewhat clumsier handling (yes, that's if you're picking it up by the bowl and not the stem). The Assessment Although prior to actually using these three glasses, my first choice was the Zwiesel Forte, it turned out to be my least favorite. It has a wide bowl, but the shortest stem among the three. It also looks too much like a restaurant wine glass for my use at home. On the positive side, it cleans up easily and has a wide opening. The bowl is big and broad. It's relatively light, but strong. On the negative side, there is an almost imperceptible seam on the stem. It's too short to be elegant. Wine tends to spot on the bowl. It may be too big overall for a universal glass. I love the Gigi, which was designed for white wine but serves perfectly well for rose, white, and sparkling as well. It's strong and cleans easily. The stem is long and the design angular and modern. It's the tallest of the three. The opening is just barely wider than that on THE ONE. The Gigi cleans up very easily, though it seems like the heaviest of the three but just barely. There is, like the Forte, an almost imperceptible seam on the stem (though for some glasses it almost disappears). I don't worry as much about breaking the Gigi in washing or handling. The design makes swirling wine a cinch even though the bowl is narrow. THE ONE is impressive. This a a true crystal wine glass with no seams. The pulled stem is longer than the Forte but shorter than the Gigi. It has a more modern design, blending angles and curves, but without being as brash as the Gigi. The opening is the smallest of the three, very slightly smaller than the Gigi. The base is the widest among the three, adding stability. Wine never spots on the bowl. Although designed as a red wine glass, it serves well for rose and white wines, slightly less so for sparkling. Before trying it, I thought it would be more delicate than it is. Overall it has an adaptable, elegant design without being traditional like the Forte or very new-fashioned like the Gigi. One downside is that it can be hard to clean the bottom of the bowl (just don't let red wine sit in the glass for too long). The Winner My choice for a serious wine glass is THE ONE from sommelier Andrea Robinson. The quality to price ratio is outstanding, especially considering the current cost of crystal wine glasses. Although I've seen complaints about the small opening, it didn't bother me. Wine swirls effortlessly. I will order more. The graceful design will embellish a dinner table or a social event. It's a solid wine glass. I will also continue to use the Gigi white wine glass for everyday, and I might even see what the red wine version has in store . . .
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Charlie Leary, PhD, has provided his top picks in wine education in his new book Leary’s Global Wineology: A Guide to Wine Education, Mentorships, and Scholarships (Hibiscus Panama SA). The book provides a reference to dozens of wine studies and mentorships programs as well as scholarships in 19 different countries. Consisting of nine chapters, the book is the only comprehensive guide to wine studies options worldwide, which include numerous online options. The number of scholarships for wine studies has increased in recent years. Leary was interviewed about the book for The Wine Conversation podcast late last year. The categories Leary chose for this inaugural edition include: The Best Wine Education Buys of 2023; The Three Most Vibrant Scholarship Programs; The Top Three Most Recognized and Valuable Wine Trade Qualifications; The Top Three Most Recognized and Valuable Sommelier Qualifications; The Top Three Schools or Programs for a General Wine Education from the Beginning; and The Top Three Innovative Interdisciplinary Wine Studies Offerings at Any Level. Leary also notes certain notable developments in wineology. Here are the selected programs: The Best Wine Education Buys of 2023 o George Brown College Wine Specialist Program: with many online options, qualified instructors, and each course costing about CAD $180–300. Nine courses are required to graduate. o Certified Wine Specialist, Society of Wine Educators (with member discount): an affordable, recognized wine qualification supported by free online classes for members. o Argentina Wine Specialist, Napa Valley Wine Academy: an affordable wine certification through online classes and exams focused on a wine producing nation of increasing quality and importance. The Three Most Vibrant Scholarship Programs o Vinequity o Gerard Basset Wine Education Charitable Foundation o Roots College Fund The Top Three Most Recognized & Valuable Wine Trade Qualifications o Master of Wine from the Institute of Masters of Wine o Diploma from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust o Certified Wine Educator from Society of Wine Educators The Top Three Most Recognized & Valuable Sommelier Qualifications o Master Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) o Diploma from the Association de la sommellerie internationale (ASI) o Diploma from Le Cordon Bleu, London or Paris The Top Three Schools or Programs for a General Wine Education from the Beginning o WSET Levels 1-3: Although the WSET curriculum could use reform and instruction quality varies among its 800+ approved program providers, it provides a ladder for rapidly progressing from no general wine knowledge to an advanced level. o San Francisco Wine School: Starting with its Intro to Wine Series, the School offers numerous options for both aspiring professionals and enthusiasts to advance their wine knowledge, including proprietary courses; prep for SWE, WSET, and CMS qualifications; online options; various proprietary certifications; and intensives. o Napa Valley Wine Academy: With its proprietary Wine 101 Foundations and Wine 201 Wines of the World courses, the NVWA seeks to “demystify” wine for beginners and then offers all WSET levels in addition to specialized courses in a variety of important wine regions. There are 35 course options. The Top Three Innovative Interdisciplinary Wine Studies Offerings at Any Level o Hochschule Geisenheim University: provides a diverse curriculum, expertise across all aspects of the wine world, important collaborative options, and inter-disciplinary learning programs leading to both undergraduate and advanced degrees. o Linfield University: a small university close to Oregon wine country offering an interdisciplinary curriculum emphasizing theory and practice, including BA or BS degree options, plus advanced study programs in wine business, including a 5-year undergraduate/master’s program in conjunction with one of France’s top wine universities. o HEC: Paris-based, advanced international business program touching on all aspects of the wine trade spectrum alongside world-class instruction. Notable Recent Developments in Wineology o The Court of Master Sommeliers, Americas’ reforms and changes, including an online course as well as alterations to the exam structure for their qualifications and the regulations governing courses and exams, including an aim of increasing “inclusion of underrepresented communities” o The University of Strasbourg’s new program on geo-sensorial tasting leading to a university diploma combined with Wine Scholar Guild’s WSG Tasting Lab™, which also uses geo-sensorial principles o Washington State University’s new wine tasting room certificate o Brock University’s new Foundations of Winemaking course, with both in-person and online options o Cordon Bleu London’s new online certificate course in wine tasting Some of Leary’s picks may be expected by those knowledgeable about the world of wine, but others may surprise readers. The books includes numerous little-known programs, such as the University of Strasbourg’s new diploma program on geo-sensorial wine tasting. The books is available as a paperback on Amazon and as an eBook through Kobo, Amazon, Apple Books, and Google Books. Charlie Leary has worked as a sommelier and wine director since 1995. He earned a doctorate in history at Cornell University and taught briefly at Tulane before entering the hospitality business. He holds numerous wine qualifications. In 2004, Random House published his cookbook on Creole cuisine.
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Excepts from Leary's Global Wineology11/17/2022 Leary's Global Wineology will be available as an eBook on Amazon, Apple Books, Kobo, and Google Play over the next few days. It provides a directory of wine education programs, degrees, and qualifications worldwide. It consists of nine chapter plus and introduction as well as interviews with recent WSET and Fresno State student Ryan Storm and the founder of San Francisco Wine School, David Glancy, MS, CWE. Chapter One traces the history of wine studies as a wine trade motivated endeavor, comparing this with accredited, but more focused university programs. The final chapter discusses suggested reform of wine studies curricula addressing issues of the environment, power, access, and equity. The following is from the Introduction: Wine consumption, availability, and variety has surged worldwide in the 21st century, accompanied by a vast increase in the number of schools, organizations, colleges, individuals, and universities offering wine courses, both presential and online, with the latter both synchronous (live via Zoom, online education platforms, or other means) and asynchronous (self-paced, with no live instructor). Those who want to increase their understanding and appreciation of wine for personal edification or social know-how, and those who are pursuing or desire to pursue a professional career in the wine industry now confront a plethora of programs with a confusing array of titles, degrees, certificates, and specializations. Some wine education is free and short, while other programs can cost dearly in time and money. Some courses of study take a few hours and others a few years. Institutions offering wine education vary from state colleges and universities to non-profit organizations and many profit-seeking companies. Sommeliers require training that may be mostly useless to vintners. Someone who wants to deftly handle ordering wine in a restaurant probably doesn’t want to learn about wine chemistry or Integrated Pest Management. Which program is right for you? What’s the difference between an MS and an MW or an MS in viticulture? Is the education for a CWE the same as that for a WSET Diploma? Are some schools better for learning about wine journalism than the wine business? This book will help answer such questions. This Guide’s Scope This is the first annual edition of what I hope will be many of this Guide. It is certainly incomplete; however, I address a lacuna in wine studies as previously, to the best of my knowledge, no such guide existed. I encourage readers to contact me with suggested additions not only in terms of the listings of study, scholarship, and mentorship programs, but also regarding missing elements or facts about curriculums, certifications, and program highlights or inadequacies. I have relied on my personal knowledge of the wine industry and extensive research. . . . I have included chapters on issues in wine studies that I view as important, however I refrain from inserting much criticism (or hyperbole) into the program descriptions themselves in Chapters Two through Eight. I am personally familiar with some of the programs and schools described here, but not all. This book should serve, first, as a guide to the diversity of wine studies programs available to prospective students while, second, also casting a critical eye on the field. It will also be of use to employers who require background on candidates’ wine studies and those with an amateur interest in furthering their wine knowledge. I hope to produce a much-enhanced edition for 2024. What is “Wine Studies”? “Wine studies,” here, refers primarily to programs of study aimed at enhancing a student’s knowledge of wine, the alcoholic beverage made from fermenting grape juice (must) of the plant Vitis vinifera or its hybrids. A friend suggested I call it “wineology” and use this in the title. Wiktionary defines wineology as “the study of wine”; that fits. Wine knowledge encompasses the wine trade, education, wine business management, and communication, which overlap with the fields of viticulture, enology, economics, botany, biology, business studies, chemistry, history, literature, marketing, sales, ecology, journalism, and environmental studies, among others. Statista reports global wine market revenue equals $340.8 billion USD in 2022. It is a massive, global, and hugely influential industry. There are excellent winemakers who are not wine studies experts and vice versa. There are Masters of Wine who couldn’t manage a vineyard, and there are superb viticulturalists who might not pass the Level 2 exam in wine from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, at least not without studying. A “wine expert” is someone who knows the “world of wine” in detail, including, prominently, the final product in terms of taste, color, aroma, age, vinification and viticultural methods, grape varieties, legal requirements, geography, appellations, distribution, logistics, packaging, price, and climate, including vintage characteristics. This includes sommeliers, wine buyers, coopers, journalists, teachers, book authors, salespeople, tasting room managers, and marketing specialists. This is a rare world in that often “wine studies” is not a field of study offered by formal, accredited degree-granting institutions. The only institution I found that intentionally uses the phrase “wine studies” for its programs is Linfield University in my home state of Oregon, referring to the necessity for an “interdisciplinary approach” that involves exploring “the cultural, social and economic significance of wine.” From an academic perspective, the 2016 book Contemporary Wine Studies defines wine studies as “looking at the place of wine in society as a whole.” It is a multi-faceted endeavor. Traditional enology and viticulture programs form part of the formal academy, yes, but the point is that someone with a university degree in these fields may or may not be a wine expert, particularly at the same level as, for instance, the MW qualification granted by the Institute of Masters of Wine or MS granted by the Court of Master Sommeliers, which have no official accreditations as educational institutions. That said, such certifications have become very important to job seekers. This book covers the gamut of wine world educational programs and qualifications, from viticulture degrees to sommelier certifications and Wine MBAs. The goal is to be inclusive--covering education related to wine, winemaking, wine trade and commerce, and grape growing—and independent, with no programs paying to be included (or not included). I cannot claim this guide is comprehensive in terms of mentioning nearly all wine studies programs worldwide, although that is the eventual goal. Again, I urge readers to contact me so that any classes or programs not included will be in future editions.
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I lived long ago in budding winegrowing regions dependent on hybrid grapes, like New York’s Finger Lakes in the 1980s and Nova Scotia in the early 2000s, and also in areas not receptive to hybrids, but still, at the time, deemed very iffy for producing wine, like Oregon’s Willamette Valley in the 1970s. The seeming difference was that the former regions were considered climatologically impossible for European wine grape production, while the latter truly sat in prime Vitis vinifera territory, with adequate warmth and fewer limiting factors, like mildew or winter kill, but at the time they seemed totally marginal. Hybrid grapes helped establish some wine appellations like New York and Nova Scotia, leading ultimately to these areas making wine history withoutsticking resolutely with hybrids.
What is a Hybrid Wine Grape and What’s Hybrid’s History? First, let’s define what a hybrid wine grape is and how that differs from, say, a cross. Historically, this goes back to advances in viticulture and the 19th century phylloxera epidemic. Phylloxera is a root louse, a parasite, native to North America. It kills vines. When Europeans discovered grape vines in the Americas, they saw great potential: a plethora of new grape varieties! New wines! A good example is the Concord grape, a cultivar derived from the American grape species Vitis labrusca. The problem was that these grape plants were actually distinct species from the European wine grape plant, Vitis vinifera. Unknowingly, they transported the root louse to Europe when they brought native North American vines back with them. They also turned out to not be great for wine making because of what’s often called a ”foxy” flavor in the resulting wine, especially that from labrusca. These sneaky parasites found their way into French vineyards and ultimately spread to all wine growing regions, including Spain, Italy, and yes, even California (the louse was native to the East Coast). Almost everywhere, vinifera on its own roots could no longer be profitably cultivated. The solution to the phylloxera epidemic proved to be grafting the roots of North American species, which resisted the louse owing to thousands of years of evolution, onto vinifera vines, which had never evolved to resist this parasite. The roots were safe from the louse and the vine that grew above the graft produced the desired European grapes! Problem solved, somewhat (Napa Valley had to replant in the 1980s and 90s because the commonly-used American rootstock proved non-resistant to phylloxera). Abundant research and plant breeding went into identifying or creating, through crosses, the best non-vinifera rootstocks for winegrowing. Viticultural scientists became experts in North American grape species and breeding, including crossing. A cross is not a hybrid. A cross is when two varieties from the same species are bred, producing a new grape variety of the same species, which, if it’s successful and genetically stable, can be reproduced through cuttings or other reproduction methods. Take, for example, Pinotage, which was created in the 1920s in South Africa from crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Inter-specific breeding can produce hybrids. In the early 20th century hybrids drew interest as well, in fact, because they can be another solution to phylloxera as well as other limiting factors like cold tolerance or mildew resistance. This is when two distinct vine species, Vitis vinifera and a North American species, like Vitis labrusca, are bred together producing a completely new type of wine grape plant that has phenotypic characteristics from both parents. The most successful early examples were French-American hybrids. Cornell University notes: In the development of the French-American hybrids, the use of V. labrusca was avoided so as not to impart its strong flavor to the new selections. Many other wild American species were used, especially V. aestivalis lincecumii (the Post Oak Grape), V. rupestris (the Sand Grape) and V. riparia (the Riverbank Grape). The flavors of the French-American group are quite variable but much more subtle than the flavors of many varieties derived from V. labrusca. Do Hybrid Grapes Provide Benefits in Winegrowing? In the 1970s, I remember winegrowing in Oregon (and Washington) remained a question, with many critics and naysayers. That’s hard to imagine now as both are celebrated wine states, famous for wines made from European grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. But adventurous Oregon and Washington winegrowers didn’t have to use hybrids. At first, they just used grafted vines and appropriate cool-climate varieties like Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Pinot Noir. The climate and the whole terroir in these regions proved the naysayers wrong, and great wines were produced using Vitis vinifera despite the relative lack of sunshine and harsh winters (compared to California). In areas like the Finger Lakes, it was a different story. This region of Upstate New York had long produced wine, including sparkling wines, despite its continental climate, but from American grape varieties like Concord. Scientists, including prominently from my alma mater Cornell University, became interested in hybrids for such marginal climates—the area has very cold (vinifera-killing) winters and is cool overall in summer, so as late as the 1960s most European great varieties were seen as impossible to grow there. Viticulturalists thought the answer to improving wine quality lay in growing hybrids. So, they produced a bunch of them. When I lived in Ithaca and Trumansburg, New York, in the 1980s, wines made from hybrid grapes dominated the local wine industry. The issue with wine made from hybrids was the flavor profile of the grapes, which although producing quaffable wines, were not what most wine drinkers accustomed to European varieties would shout about, even if they weren’t “foxy.” I remember refreshing white wines from Cayuga, a French-American hybrid originally hybridized by Cornell specifically for growing in the Finger Lakes region. Change occurred when an Eastern European scientist working for Cornell became convinced that cool-climate Vitis vinifera varieties could be grown there, especially on the banks of the Finger Lakes, where the huge volume of water in these very deep lakes provided suitable, moderated microclimates. His name was Dr. Konstantin Frank, and he was right! Today, the Finger Lakes is famed for its Rieslings and Gewurztraminers, but also grows Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and even Pinot Noir. So, it turned out to be similar to the winegrowing history in Oregon. The naysayers were wrong again. Next, when I lived in Nova Scotia, Canada, in the early 2000s, aspiring winemakers turned to hybrids to survive the cool summer climate and harsh winters. The same was true in Ontario, which produces world-famous ice-wine from Vidal, a hybrid grape. Growing vinifera was considered impossible. Today, however, some estate wineries are producing fabulous wines from European grapes, such as Lightfoot and Wolfville Vineyards. There’s also a budding sparkling wine industry there. Again, the naysayers were proved wrong. Although most wineries still use hybrids in Nova Scotia (and Quebec), there’s a trend toward European grape production of very high quality wines. Hybrids and the Future of Wine This little story brings me to a few conclusions. First, the history of Oregon, the Finger Lakes, and Nova Scotia from the 1960s to today shows that Vitis vinifera, grafted onto the correct American rootstock, will flourish in regions that previous generations thought were marginal at best owing to the prevailing climate. Hybrids were important, in two of those locations, to propel winegrowing as a viable endeavor. With today’s rapid climate change, wine scientists are again looking to hybrids for potential solutions, but this time to produce grape plants able to flourish and produce good wine in what are newly becoming marginal areas, but were previously prime terroirs, usually because of too much heat, changes to spring and fall weather, and too little water. The history of places I have been privileged to live in shows, however, that seemingly-marginal areas can become, over time, superb for winegrowing. The naysayers have been proven wrong time and again. The flavor profile of most hybrids also remains an important issue, although educating consumers about these wines could help. Overall, I believe the most-viable future lies in sticking with Vitis vinifera, including exploring the use of native varieties that were uprooted from their native lands in the modern era to make way for popular varieties (like Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and Tempranillo in Spain). A key word here is “appropriate.” Appropriate technology transfer, including appropriate varietal selection, is a foundation of sustainable viticulture. Torres Family Wines’ effort in hot, arid Spain is a great example of such a program. Such varieties are often well adapted to local climes, to drought, and to more heat. Crosses of vinifera, too, hold potential, as with South Africa’s Pinotage. Scientific research is essential. The moral is that marginal winegrowing areas have popped up again and again in wine history. They proved to be successful, with determination. Climate change is quickly producing marginal conditions in what were previously prime viticultural regions. One answer is hybrids. Another is appropriate varietal selection for the new climate (though if it keeps changing, that will be a continuing problem). Still another is moving production of the same popular varieties to new areas, with cooler climates under climate change, but that leaves the specter of famous terroirs being abandoned. Entire wine regions have disappeared in the past because of pressure from Mother Nature combined with human intervention. The naysayers regarding vinifera cultivation in Nova Scotia, the Finger Lakes, and Oregon were wrong. The naysayers about climate change and its vinous consequences probably are too. |